Heater fan, gauges and wipers dont work

[SSerious]

I've been going through the electrical gremlins on the '67 and now I have a new one. The gauges dont work, the heater fan will not turn on and the wipers dont work.

I have power at the fusebox for interior lights and ignition. No power anywhere else. Anyone have a suggestion where to start looking for the break?

Here is what has been done/replaced to this point.
Ignition switch
Headlight switch
rebuilt steering column (including tss)
Neutral safety switch

[Racer Z]

One of the connectors might be loose/bad. On the main under-dash wiring harness, at the passenger side firewall is three (3) connectors. On both my 69 and 70 (F250) is a red connector that is the main power in. When my red connector was loose/bad, nothing worked just like you described. That also included not being able to crank, but the headlights still worked.

After I fixed the red connector, everything started to work except the wipers which turned out to be a bad ground.

[SSerious]

I've been doing a lot under the dash, so it could very well be a loose connection somewhere. I'll take a look at the red main connector and see what happens.

The truck is able to start and all the lights work, but I'll try it anyway.

[Thunderfoot]

Check that you have power on both the #297 Black/green striped wire and #763 Orange/white striped wire with key on ACC. This is the only place where the power for the things you have not working splits off. See diagram http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... wipers.jpg Wire 297 is the switched main power wire to the fuse box and then the power is fused from there to the heater fan as wire #181 which also splits to the windshield washer pump power #950 , this wire #297 is also the start of the power to the gauges as it splits off as wire 30 as seen in this diagram. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... gauges.jpg The wipers are shown as wire 763 and it is not fused, as the wiper switch has a circuit breaker built into it. Check these wires with a test light to find out were it is loosing power. Hope this helps.

[SSerious]

I went out and checked the power at the various points.

Apparently there is a short at the ignition switch (#763). Once I started moving wires around everything came back to life.

Thanks for the tips!

[SSerious]

On a second note, the ignition switches from BW at O'reily are garbage!

This is literally the third switch to fail.

[Racer Z]

On a second note, the ignition switches from BW at O'reily are garbage!

This is literally the third switch to fail.

Maybe it's the wire near the switch.

[SSerious]

Ive had to replace the switch twice already. Once because it totally fell apart. It appears that this switch was about to do the same thing.

[fordman]

good thing to know i almost bought a switch from them. i had even asked about bw quality. look like i may just try to solder the tang back on my switch.

[Racer Z]

Does anybody know if LMC, NPD, or Dennis Carpenter has a better product?

[DBXJ]

i was having the same problem and replacing the plug for the ignition switch fixed my problem, you can repair it as well but mine was just to far gone and found another one in the junkyard and spliced it in

[Alfred Lord Tenniscourt]

Honestly, my experience is that the junkyard has the best stuff. I am sure someone sells something nice and new, but I haven't found them, and the old stuff was really made pretty well. I think the metal they used for conductors had a higher copper content back then, and I can tell by looking that the casings were a lot better.
I don't know what you are building your truck up for, but I wouldn't be afraid to toggle switch it and throw in a pushbutton starter... I would rather have descent parts that aren't stock than junk that is supposed to fit but doesn't work.