Bad Brown Wire

[ta TACO]

The red and white wire where combined to the Black wire 38 leaving the other wire useless. And the wire that bolts to the back of the alt goes to the solenoid, if i'm remembering right.

[ta TACO]

Well there is one thig for certain wrong with it. IT doesn't have the proper pully. It's wearing on one side of the belt very badly. Not sure if I could just pull the proper pully and put it on? Once I get my camera back working I'll post some pics. I have to go to Oregon for a funeral this weekend, so I can't do anything untill I get back.

[Thunderfoot]

I did notice the 16A wire, but it looks to be light brown. May be from getting hot. So I can go to oriely's and get that whole section of the harness, or just resistive wire. Is that a word, resistive? Oh well I'm rolling with it.

Yep, they have it listed as a Coil Resistor http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0334

I was also thinking that I need to replace the entire wire and the connector since NOW, I have no juice to the starter . Like I said, I only replaced about 3-5 inches past the yellow connector under the dash on the passenger side.

not sure there but suspect that some wires were shorted together and now they're not, so your probably going to have to look some more under the dash in the harness... also, be sure you have the 2 small wires on the solenoid hooked in the right places...

The alternator is new, but I noticed there was 2 wires coming from a plug and another bolted going to the solenoid. So I did some research. Come to find out AC Delco part 334-2112 is a damn Chevy alternator!

As mentioned, it should work, others have used them...

Oh yeah, since I replaced wires 39 and 31. I checked them to see if they had power. They do, but it is a pulsing power. Is this normal

Yep, that is the way the IPVR works for the sensors, so the gauges should work now.

For the starter check that you have power on the #32 Red/blue striped wire from the switch to the solenoid in the Start Position, it routs through the neutral safety switch so be sure that you have it in park or neutral (if automatic) or that the jumper wire is in the plug if you have standard, it is on towards the bottom of the steering column.

[fordman]

the alternator may need to be shimmed in or out to get the belt not to rub. or maybe the swap of the pulley. it depends on what it looks like.

[ta TACO]

Thanks guys for the help. I'll be back on Tuesday. Have a good weekend .

Davin.

[ta TACO]

OK, so I went to the pick and pull and got the ignition switch plug with all the wire attached. I pulled the wires that go to the coil, the pink, red/white and white and red to the gauge cluster. I also pulled the other end of the connector that goes out to the coil. I also purchased a new ignition switch. I started wireing everthing back up last night but couldn't finsh before dark . Since I was in there I removed everything from the interior to address some rust issues, so that took most of my time. I'm hoping to have it back together tonight. Need to get some more shrink tube.

By the way, the wire diagrams show the red/green wire connects to the pink wire. This is not true. That pink wire goes from the ignition switch to the connector. That red/green wire goes to a green wire. Oh yeah, the brown wire was fryed the entire way to the connector that goes to the coil .

[Racer Z]

The colors of some of the wires as well as some of the connectors change from year to year. I've got 69 & 70 F250's and the wiring is not 100% interchangeable. It's 95% at best.

[Thunderfoot]

Yeah, These Ford diagrams do have some mistakes in some of them here and there, and some of the ones here don't show the difference in the wiring from having gauges or the idiot lights, as the wiring changes a bit for each but still a pretty good reference overall... The 72 detailed diagram does show all configurations but it is a lot harder to read... it has the coil wire as Pink the whole way up to the firewall connector then the Red/green striped from there to the coil; but it also has a short Red/green wire off the ignition switch that connects to a Green/red striped wire, which is the exciter wire for the voltage regulator probably like the one you got (this is the wiring for full gauge setup).
Sounds like your getting it all figured out and fixed up!

[ta TACO]

Yes Sir. Thanks again for the help Thunderfoot.

Davin

[ta TACO]

Need some serious, quick help here. I finally got the truck to start, and it sounds great after fixing a few things. So here's my dilemma, it won't turn OFF . Then my stupid A$$ pulled the coil wire to shut it down. DON'T DO THAT! Never been shocked by a car before. First time for everything I guess. Please help me out here. I need to know what would cause this. I got a new ignition switch, and rewired everything to the coil.

[Thunderfoot]

Check that you only have power on that brown wire from the starter solenoid post when cranking and not full time from that post on the solenoid, I've seen bad solenoids that have this stuck on causing this... try unplugging that wire from the solenoid and see if it still does it.