67 F-100
My brake light switch came apart last week so I consulted the regular catalogs for a replacement. I found one switch common among 68-72 and a different one for the 67. My 67 has the 68-72 plunger type. My 67 shop manual says my switch should mount to the master cylinder. Anyone have a photo or description of their 67 brake switch. For now, I simply installed the 68-72 switch and it works OK.
Here are photos of both switches. Thanks.
jor
Different Brake Light Switches
- jor
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Different Brake Light Switches
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- 68F250
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
What's the question?
Sounds like you already have it figured out. The '67 switch you have a pic of mounts where the mc pushrod connects to the brake pedal, lots of the cars used that setup too.
The '68+ switch you have a pic of is what you need if you have the plunger setup for some reason.
Hey, can't you get any closer pics?
Sounds like you already have it figured out. The '67 switch you have a pic of mounts where the mc pushrod connects to the brake pedal, lots of the cars used that setup too.
The '68+ switch you have a pic of is what you need if you have the plunger setup for some reason.
Hey, can't you get any closer pics?
Barry
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
- jor
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
Thanks. I was looking for a photo of the proper 67 switch mounting. The later one works on my truck but I'd like to mount the switch that is supposed to be on it. I see what you mean about the photo size! If I can figure out how to delete these I'll post smaller ones.Anyone have a photo or description of their 67 brake switch?
jor
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
OIC, you want to see what it looks like anyway.
Here's the deal, if your pedal has the bracket for the plunger style switch, you've got a '68+ pedal assembly already in your truck so that's the switch that's supposed to be on there. I don't think you can back-fit the '67 switch on the '68+ pedal assembly.
Keith has some pics of the '67 and '68+ pedal assemblies somewhere but I can't find them at the moment.
Also, from the looks of your pic, you got the plunger switch screwed in too far. Shouldn't have to press in the plunger that far for the switch to work, looks like it's bottoming out and putting stress on the switch assy.
Here's the deal, if your pedal has the bracket for the plunger style switch, you've got a '68+ pedal assembly already in your truck so that's the switch that's supposed to be on there. I don't think you can back-fit the '67 switch on the '68+ pedal assembly.
Keith has some pics of the '67 and '68+ pedal assemblies somewhere but I can't find them at the moment.
Also, from the looks of your pic, you got the plunger switch screwed in too far. Shouldn't have to press in the plunger that far for the switch to work, looks like it's bottoming out and putting stress on the switch assy.
Barry
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
- jor
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
Barry,Also, from the looks of your pic, you got the plunger switch screwed in too far. Shouldn't have to press in the plunger that far for the switch to work, looks like it's bottoming out and putting stress on the switch assy.
That's what I thought too, however, the plunger needs to go down that far to turn the lights off. Even at that point, it just barely works. The switch is new but maybe a little off.
jor
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Re: re: Different Brake Light Switches
That's odd. You should be able to turn off your brake lights manually by reaching down there and just barely depressing the plunger (with your brake pedal depressed and out of the way of course). If it doesn't work that way, something is wrong with the switch I would think.jor wrote:Barry,Also, from the looks of your pic, you got the plunger switch screwed in too far. Shouldn't have to press in the plunger that far for the switch to work, looks like it's bottoming out and putting stress on the switch assy.
That's what I thought too, however, the plunger needs to go down that far to turn the lights off. Even at that point, it just barely works. The switch is new but maybe a little off.
jor
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
Yeah I agree, something must be wrong with your switch.
I just went out in the parking lot and measured my switch. The brake lights turn off when you press the switch in about 1/3 of the way.
I just went out in the parking lot and measured my switch. The brake lights turn off when you press the switch in about 1/3 of the way.
Barry
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
- jor
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- Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:28 am
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re: Different Brake Light Switches
OK, I researched this a bit when I got home tonight. A previous owner has jury rigged this assembly a bit. The brake pedal assemby is factory (I think) and appears to be the later model. The tab that the switch plunger touches, however, is definitely an add-on. As far as the switch goes, the plunger has a detent position at about 1/8" out, the point at which the switch activates the lights.
My problem is further complicated in that the brake lights are going on when I put in the clutch (no wonder tailgaters have been backing off when I shift!). Anyhow, this is caused when the whole assembly flexes. I see that one of the plastic bushings is broken so they're probably all bad. Anyhow, I'll have to replace the bushings and line up the switch best I can.
I'd still like to see a photo of a 67 setup though.
jor
My problem is further complicated in that the brake lights are going on when I put in the clutch (no wonder tailgaters have been backing off when I shift!). Anyhow, this is caused when the whole assembly flexes. I see that one of the plastic bushings is broken so they're probably all bad. Anyhow, I'll have to replace the bushings and line up the switch best I can.
I'd still like to see a photo of a 67 setup though.
jor
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