In preparing to install my Pertronix II unit, I wanted something "pictoral" (I'm a visual learner) to take to the garage. I found this article on mustangmonthly.com, but it wasn't really suitable for printing.
So I took a little time tonight to capture all the images and text and put it in a Word doc. Then I converted it to PDF (for Adobe Reader). Hopefully this will help someone who isn't all that familiar with points or taking apart the distributer.
Heck... I'm still trying to figure out how I'll remember which plug goes to which port on the dizzy when I'm ready to put it back together. I'm thinking masking tape and numbers right now. LOL!
Anyhow... I was going to attach the file here, but it won't let me attach a PDF, so I've dumped it on my personal site for now. I hope it doesn't kill my bandwidth! Maybe Keith can copy it up to the site somewhere...
Piece of cake Mike I did mine within 40min doing a nice job too been running for 10yrs now never had a problem yet sure beats points and gives a hotter spark with the accel super coil. over the others. I have faith in ya
OH BTY when you gap the unit use a brass gap gauge or a plastic type not the metal they show in the pics because there is an electromagnetic thing about this unit and metal does something to the pickup thingy that isnt good for it.
Tim
Ford Is The Mountain That The Rock fell Off Of.
72 F-250 Camper Special 390 Stroker 419 CID 420 HP Natural Asp 200 HP NOS C-6 Dana 60 4.10
96 F-150 XLT 4X4 5.8 Heavy Duty 4EOD
Hey Tim... good to hear from you! Thanks for the vote of confidence... You know my mechanical skills are questionable (at least to me), so I venture into things like this with caution. Fortunately, I'm more confident with my ability to understand electrical stuff, so this is a bit more within my realm of possibilities.
Good suggestion on the gap gauge! I figured most of them WERE either brass or aluminum, so I'll be sure not to get one made of steel!
Former owner of a '67 F100 Camper Special
Current owner of a 2022 Ford Bronco Wildtrak
Supermike wrote:In preparing to install my Pertronix II unit, I wanted something "pictoral" (I'm a visual learner) to take to the garage. I found this article on mustangmonthly.com, but it wasn't really suitable for printing.
So I took a little time tonight to capture all the images and text and put it in a Word doc. Then I converted it to PDF (for Adobe Reader). Hopefully this will help someone who isn't all that familiar with points or taking apart the distributer.
Heck... I'm still trying to figure out how I'll remember which plug goes to which port on the dizzy when I'm ready to put it back together. I'm thinking masking tape and numbers right now. LOL!
Anyhow... I was going to attach the file here, but it won't let me attach a PDF, so I've dumped it on my personal site for now. I hope it doesn't kill my bandwidth! Maybe Keith can copy it up to the site somewhere...
That has to be one of the best how-to threads I've seen. I've been considering going to electronic but was concerned I may get in over my head. After seeing the visuals, I have no doubt I can do that swap with no problem. Thanks a million for the visuals.
Great write-up! I plan on running the Pertronix unit, so this was a great help.
Matt
1971 F-100 Sport Custom - My grandpaws truck
Been in the family since 10/3/'71 (Brand spankin' new)
Mine since 5/7/'94
302 / 3 speed / 3:25's
--Currently undergoing full frame off resto/mod--
The coil does not come with the PII "kit"... you have to buy it seperately. I think the PII requires the 45,000v coil, so you'll want to swap them out to get the best performance and to avoid blowing out your old coil.
Former owner of a '67 F100 Camper Special
Current owner of a 2022 Ford Bronco Wildtrak
I just purchased the Pertronix I but have not recieved it yet. The question I have is do you need to bypass the pink resistor wire off of the ignition to install it. thanks in advance. Toast
Life is hard; its harder if your STUPID. John Wayne
1972 Ford F-100 Explorer 302 C4 automatic
2005 Chrysler T&C Limited
1996 Honda Accord LX 238,000 miles and counting
drytoast wrote:I just purchased the Pertronix I but have not recieved it yet. The question I have is do you need to bypass the pink resistor wire off of the ignition to install it. thanks in advance. Toast
Some people say they did NOT bypass the pink resistor wire and used their stock coil with the PI ... but Pertronix instructions and others say that you SHOULD bypass the pink wire. On the whole, I think it would be a good idea. The trick I am trying to figure out is how BEST to bypass the resistor wire while doing the LEAST amount of damage to my stock wiring, which has pretty much persevered 40 years without being cut. As of now, I'm reconsidering running a new wire from the ignition to the coil, if I can figure out how to wire it to the ignition.
I also have this graphic I put together about a year ago, for those who are unsure how to go about this. Note... this drawing is sort of 67-specific. For 68 or 69 and up, the pink wire goes all the way to the ignition instead of the red/green wire.
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Last edited by Supermike on Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Former owner of a '67 F100 Camper Special
Current owner of a 2022 Ford Bronco Wildtrak
Very good thread on the Pertronix, thanks Mike!
BC # 16 had a slight miss in her when I ran the engine, (I'd set the Pertronix air gap by eyesight).
Time to go back and verify the air gap on the pertronix.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
drytoast wrote:I just purchased the Pertronix I but have not recieved it yet. The question I have is do you need to bypass the pink resistor wire off of the ignition to install it. thanks in advance. Toast
Some people say they did NOT bypass the pink resistor wire and used their stock coil with the PI ... but Pertronix instructions and others say that you SHOULD bypass the pink wire. On the whole, I think it would be a good idea. The trick I am trying to figure out is how BEST to bypass the resistor wire while doing the LEAST amount of damage to my stock wiring, which has pretty much persevered 40 years without being cut. As of now, I'm reconsidering running a new wire from the ignition to the coil, if I can figure out how to wire it to the ignition.
I also have this graphic I put together about a year ago, for those who are unsure how to go about this. Note... this drawing is sort of 67-specific. For 68 or 69 and up, the pink wire goes all the way to the ignition instead of the red/green wire.
As an important FYI to '67 owners...
Per my instructions (based on discussion info gathered here), I had recommended cutting the red/green wire in order to bypass the pink resistor wire.
DO NOT DO THIS!!
What I found is that in doing this, you will cut off the wire that tells the alternator to charge the battery. This will cause you (or someone) significant headaches later, and could significantly reduce the life of your battery. It took me quite a lot of time to sort that one out.
What I recommend doing is running a new wire from the ignition to the coil, as shown in my diagram, but NOT cutting the red/green wire. Instead, just un-hook it from the coil and wrap it up good with electrical tape. This should effectively disconnect the old resisted wire from the coil while allowing the new wire to take care of the connection from the ignition to the coil.
Here's the thread where this was found and discussed....
