points eliminator

[Dragon]

Yes you can but why use points that wear out. The MSD 6 series can be used with anything that supplies a trigger signal and has a single coil.

[72Highboy]

Just a question for you guys that have put in a points eliminator did the one you install come with a vacum advance, or do you not need one when you do the switch? Also is there any chance to the ignition wires or do you have to splice or tap into any part of the ignition wires? I would like to do the swap also my dad says it better and more reliable.

EDIT sorry Im am sure they come with instructions and will tell me what to do but sometime people that have done it before have hints and tricks.

[Dragon]

An Accel eliminator has it's own 3 wires. One to coil positive, 1 to negative and 1 to ground. The eliminators do nothing to the dizzy but get rid of the points they don't effect either advance system nor do they come with anything beside their trigger wheel and pickup. Take out points, condenser and dizzy wiring. Insert pickup where points went and run wiring harness through old points wire hole. Almost mindless.

[HOWDY69]

what did you use to convert your ignition? I have an msd 6al box and msd coil I need something inexpensive that will work with this setup.

I am new to this ignition stuff but I like to use components from the same company similar to using primer and paint from the same company. It helps keep Murphy at bay if you are just learning. I had a Pertronix Ignitor and a no name coil. I suspected my coil was messing up so I decided to go with a Pertronix coil and now all is well. That does not mean a different coil would not work it just makes it easier when I call Pertronix about an issue. If you can follow what these guys are talking about...go for it. Otherwise call MSD and get a recommendation. When I researched ingitions I could find lovers and haters for every product. Inexpensive is relative in California where a tow is $90 per half hour.

[ToughOldFord]

I also did the Protonix Ignitor with the Flame Thrower coil. Installed easy and it's been around 4 years or more with no problems. IIRC both pieces totaled $80 +-

[fastlayne14]

thanks everyone for your posts, sounds like I have alot of options. I knew you could hook up the 6al boxes to the points system I just want to get rid of points all together. Now im just gonna check some prices on things and see what my wife will let me get away with this paycheck . I recently bought a four barrel manifold and carburetor so it could be a while until my next upgrade.

[rlgrantjr]

I've had the Accel Points Eliminator kit and an Accel Super Stock coil in my truck for a year with no problems
and it runs better than with my points. It stays in time and you get to use a hotter coil. Just don't leave the
key on without the truck running. I bought my Accel stuff new on Ebay for less than retail. I personally would
not put an MSD box on a points system, instead use the money to upgrade the points system to Accel or something
else, put a hotter coil on it then add the MSD box if you still think you need it.

[Dragon]

I have the Yellow Super Stock points coil (all I could get here when I converted) 42,000 volts with Accel Points Eliminator Since February 2007 with only one silly problem, the ground wire got loose, my bad. I second the key on warning as the coil will get hot just like the points system. If you use one of 4 coils from Accel that they list you can remove the ballast resistor.

[Lucky 13]

I bought the Accel points elim. and a super stock coil today and swapped the points out, it seems like the coil isnt giving off enough juice to ignite. Anyone who could shed some light would be much appreciated...

[Dragon]

Red wire to coil from firewall to the module red wire. Green module wire to coil negative and Brown wire MUST be to a good engine ground. The spark should be real long and thin. This means high voltage low current. Fat means high current and short means low voltage. When I had a 8140 coil act up and kill my truck the spark was barely a 1/8 inch long. Good coil over 1/2 inch and I don't hold the wire.

Pictures of my Setup with 8140 coil and eliminator is in my photo album. I run a .044 gap with Autolite APP45 platinum plugs.

[knightfire83]

[speed bump]

I am planning on doing a Duraspark II or III system and TFI coil whenever I get around to it.

[Dragon]

Duraspark was a I or II not III TFI took over as the one after II

[Bub]

Red wire to coil from firewall to the module red wire. Green module wire to coil negative and Brown wire MUST be to a good engine ground. The spark should be real long and thin. This means high voltage low current. Fat means high current and short means low voltage. When I had a 8140 coil act up and kill my truck the spark was barely a 1/8 inch long. Good coil over 1/2 inch and I don't hold the wire.

Pictures of my Setup with 8140 coil and eliminator is in my photo album. I run a .044 gap with Autolite APP45 platinum plugs.

I just switched over to the Accel 2020 and the 8140. I haven't installed them yet, but am looking forward to it - sounds almost Bub-proof.

I do have a couple questions: Is it mandatory to gap the plugs to .044 and why? And you indicated that the 8140 killed your truck - what happened and how can I prevent it - ground issue?

I don't have much auto experience, but I'm learning thanks to all of you.

Thanks in advance.

~Bub

[Dragon]

The documentation told me I could bypass the resistor wire using a 8140 it was wrong I still have the dead coil under the hood to show the people that say coils don't burn up. You don't have to gap them to 44. You are getting a higher voltage spark which will shoot farther so a wider gap will work. Right now with Autolite 45s I use .40 with APP45 Autolite Double platinums I use .44 or .45 With Bosch platinums I use 35 and still have sick truck symptoms.