Charging issue - need quick advice

[Supermike]

Ok... thanks! I'll try the paperclip tonight... hopefully I don't get shocked somehow... !

In looking at the wiring diagram (http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... gauges.jpg), I notice that wire 904 goes to the "Charge Indicator Lamp", which of course is a guage in my truck. However, I also noticed that it goes through a square "block" that would be up around the inner fender. This is the rubber block I've been asking about. EVERY wire coming from my regulator and alternator and going to my solenoid seems to route through this rectangular block. It looks like it *could* open, but I've not been able to pull it apart. Is there a fuse inside of that thing??

[fordman]

i had similar issues with a 84 tempo i had. it was a bad regulator. i had replaced it but it just wanst enought charging with the regulator i go tto put on it. i had to get oen that charged a full 12.6 or over. the one i had also charged 12.4 when tested. it wasnt enough.

[70_F100]

Ok... thanks! I'll try the paperclip tonight... hopefully I don't get shocked somehow... !

In looking at the wiring diagram (http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... gauges.jpg), I notice that wire 904 goes to the "Charge Indicator Lamp", which of course is a guage in my truck. However, I also noticed that it goes through a square "block" that would be up around the inner fender. This is the rubber block I've been asking about. EVERY wire coming from my regulator and alternator and going to my solenoid seems to route through this rectangular block. It looks like it *could* open, but I've not been able to pull it apart. Is there a fuse inside of that thing??

Based on what I'm seeing, there are three connectors (A, B and C) for wiring from the solenoid and regulator. These connectors should be somewhere close to the firewall.

Connector "A" has a single wire coming from the battery side of the solenoid, and it appears to power the headlight circuit and possibly the fuse block.

Connector "B" has two wires coming from the solenoid, #32 and #262. #32 is the wire that provides power to the solenoid when the ignition is turned to the "start" position. #262 provides 12 volts to the coil when the ignition is in the "start" position.

Connector "C" has wire #904, which goes from the voltage regulator to the instrument cluster, as you stated. At the connector, it is joined to #98, which comes from the ignition switch.

This is where an ohmmeter should be used for testing. You need to pull connector "C" apart and remove the plug from the voltage regulator. Touch one of the leads from the ohmmeter to the wire at connector "C", and the other end to wire 904 at the regulator. Alternately, it looks like you should have power on that wire with the ignition switch on, so you should be able to pull the plug from the regulator and use a test light to check for voltage on wire #904.

If you are talking about the thing that looks like a two-piece connector on #904 that is located close to the solenoid, I’m not exactly sure what that is. I guess it’s possible that there is a fuse there. Testing for power on wire #904 at the voltage regulator would test for any kind of open circuit in that wire.

Have you taken the truck to have the alternator and regulator checked yet? I understand that you have concerns about the wire and whether or not it has a fuse, but you’re pretty much chasing your tail until you have it checked again. Personally, I wouldn’t spend any more time trying to diagnose a problem that may be non-existent.

Here’s my suggestion:

• [1] If you’re determined to continue to worry about the wire, do as I suggested. Use a test light to check for power.
  [2] Take the truck and have it tested at the auto parts place. NAPA, Pep Boys, Advance, AutoChina – it doesn’t matter. Just get it checked. If the regulator shows bad, replace it while you’re there.
  [3] If replacing the regulator doesn’t fix it, take the alternator and regulator to someone who has a bench tester and have it checked there.
  [4] If the alternator and regulator both check good, then, and only then, would I start worrying about the wiring

[70_F100]

I just ran across something that makes me question this whole topic.

Is your 67 a "LATE" 67?

I was looking at the wiring diagrams here on the site, and based on your description of the way yours is wired, it sounds VERY much like it could have a 68 wiring harnes, which does, in fact, have some fuses in the circuit.

Here's the link: http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... arging.jpg

We may have something here!!

[Supermike]

Thanks for the continued help... my truck was built in May of '67, so I'm not sure if that classifies as "late" or not... however, that almost LOOKS more "right" to me. It's a Camper Special, so it may have been wired a little different than other 67's, anyhow? That "14305 Assembly" (Connector "C") looks almost like what I'm seeing (I have attached a picture to this post, see the circled connector). So by that, is the diagram showing there's a 4amp fuse INSIDE of that assembly?? It's so hard to pull apart, I'm almost afraid to keep trying.

Tonight I stopped on my way home at Advance Auto. The guy put his fancy tester on the battery and it came back that the battery was "Bad". I asked if that was just because it had no charge, and he said "No". He said it runs a cycle test, etc., and it has bad cells or whatever. This is the same battery that NAPA and O'Reilly have both said was good.... though I will admit that Advance's tester looked more fancy.

Anyhow, because the battery was "Bad", he went and got a good battery and plugged it up so we could test the charging systems. The tester has this clamp that he put around the negative cable that is supposed to detect the amperage coming back to the battery. It showed NOTHING! Conversely, in another mode, it showed 0.02amps being drawn from the battery... probably by the radio. So while the alternator appears to be getting juice from the battery (via the fusible link -- verified by test light to the 'B' terminal), it does not appear to be putting anything back?

SO... I ran out of time for tonight and tomorrow. My next course of action is to remove the alternator AND the battery and take them to Advance. They will test them both again (bench test the alternator) and see if they're bad. If so, I'm going to take them to NAPA and get them replaced... the battery is an 84mo warranty, and the alternator is a 1yr warranty, I think. IF the alternator (and/or battery) tests GOOD, then I don't know what to do.

I will try to hit the regulator wires with the key on to see if I get a test light... I shouldn't expect any sparks, should I?

[70_F100]

No sparks expected!!!

[Supermike]

Here's what I just learned...

1) If looking at the 67 diagram, wire #904 does NOT exist in my truck! That connection is 'blank' on my VR plug. I've heard others say their trucks only have 3 wires on the 4-port plug, too, so I'd like to know what wire 904 is for. It traces to the panel, so perhaps it was a wire for the "dummy light" (since this diagram shows a charge indicator lamp)?

2) At the voltage regulator plug, I have juice flowing to the first (yellow) wire, which would be #152 on the '67 diagram. It lit up nice and bright with a test light. The other two did nothing (and not sure they were supposed to). Technically I'm not sure it should matter if the key is on or off, since the wire traces directly to the solenoid.

3) wire #26 (ground from alternator to vr) appears to not exist on my truck... and has not since I purchased it in 2007. This issue just came up, so I'm not sure that's the problem. This wire appears to be a double-ground, so I'm not sure where the other, shorter end (#26A) is supposed to connect). But it ain't there. I would have *thought* it would be part of the harness assembly, but maybe not? Can someone provide a picture of this wire and where it terminates?

4) Sometimes a connector is just a connector. I got a screwdriver and slowly jimmied the connector apart that I showed in the picture above. Turns out it was just a 4-prong pass-thru connector. It was a bit corroded inside, so I knocked on it a bit (maybe some soda water another night) and added some dielectric grease to the fitting, then put it back together. There is NO fuse in that connector, as an fyi.

If looking at the 68 diagram, it's not right... there is no field relay or connector for one.

I wish there were an easy way to test the regulator, itself.

[70_F100]

I'm pretty sure either Advance or AutoChina can test the regulator off the vehicle.

[Supermike]

I thought they could, too, but he said no, it was just part of the charging system test...

[70_F100]

Have you had them test the system again on the truck?????????????????????????????????????????????

[Supermike]

You mean since last night?? (see my 12:42am post... )

No, I'm seriously limping along right now. My truck has become my ONLY transportation, and my ride share partner to work has been taking time off this week. So last night I charged up the battery and made it in to work. I have doubts about whether it'll start this afternoon. Unfortunately, I have to do that all over again tomorrow, so I can't take the alternator out yet. I have something going on tonight, so my plan is after work tomorrow to take out the alt and battery, put the battery on a charger, and then take them over to Advance on Sat. morning to have them bench tested. At that time, if one or the other or both are bad, I'll replace them accordingly. But if they are BOTH good? Well, then I'll probably just stab a fork in my brain because this issue is killing me. LOL!

[Montana71-F100]

Before you use the fork, take a look at your starter. The front bushing in mine was badly worn. It had all the symptoms of a weak battery. My daughter and I had to push start it numerous times in Great Falls. I parked on inclines when I could so I could start it.

[Supermike]

haha!

The starter would/could keep the battery from charging?? I thought once the engine was running the starter was out of the picture? For the most part it starts up pretty fast when it's warm....

[Montana71-F100]

haha!

The starter would/could keep the battery from charging?? I thought once the engine was running the starter was out of the picture? For the most part it starts up pretty fast when it's warm....

You are right, the starter is out of the picture after it starts. With mine, it would start easily at times and other times it would act like a weak battery and sometimes it would click. I thought I either had a dead battery or loose connection. If you are sure the battery isn't charging then it's not the starter.

[Supermike]

Thanks, Thunderfoot... I'm out of time tonight (I've been staying up too late lately), so I'll be working on this tomorrow night. I'll definitely check the 904 wire at the VR, and the #35 at the alternator, and if there's no power I'll jumper it to the #152 and see if there's power at the alternator then.

The tester I'm talking about is shown below, circled in Yellow. It doesn't do anything when I touch the ends together, and there's no battery to it that I can tell.

Sears has a multi-meter on sale for $20 right now, so I'm going to send my wife after it tomorrow.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ulti+meter


You guys are the best...