I gotta tell ya I love this site. After reading through many post trying to find an answer ive decided to just ask. Ive got a '71 f100, 360, auto. I had to put a steering colum in it. from a 72 bronco ( at least thats what the guy from the junk yard said it was from). It fit fine, with the same wiring harness. After I did that the horn was always blowing, so I disconnected the yellow wire at the horn and figured id get to that later. Then the battery was draining. I figured from the horn being on constantly. I couldnt figure out why the horn was on all the time. I checked the little brass this under the steering wheel. Checked fuses. Checked connections. Then yesterday I went to start it, and nothing . I charged the battery. Still nothing. I tried jumping the starter relay as discribed in another thread and just got a series of clicks. I replaced that. Then when I turned the key I got a click. After that I tried jumper cables and it turned over slowly even with the key in the off position. The jumper cables were hot. What am I doing wrong here?
Could have a short in the horn hotwire somewhere. The clicks and slow cranking is from a still low or nearly dead battery.
Do I understand correctly that you replaced the fenderwell mounted solenoid? Did you hook the wires back up correctly? It should not crank over with the key off.
Starters on these trucks can go bad. They still operate, but will have a constant current draw that kills the battery. I've replaced a few like that.
68 F-100 Short Box 2wd
302/c4/3.50
81 F-100 Long Box 2wd
460/c6/3.00
92 F-150 Lariat 4wd
302/auto couldn't go wrong for $500
Thanks for the reply wrecking crew. Ive been searching for the short in the horn, but now of course the bigger problem is its not running. ( dont use the horn anyway). I did replace the starter solenoid/relay thats behind the battery on the passenger side next to the horn relay. I hooked it up just like the one I replaced but I will double check using the wire diagrams. Its was cranking slowly with the key off (ignition switch maybe?) Ill check the starter next. Thanks again
the battery doesnt have enough charge or the connections are tight enough to make good contact. take the horn brush out of the column to break the horn connection. pulling the wire to the horn wont stop the flow of power.
fordman wrote:the battery doesnt have enough charge or the connections are tight enough to make good contact. take the horn brush out of the column to break the horn connection. pulling the wire to the horn wont stop the flow of power.
Disconnect the horn relay. It's MUCH easier than pulling the horn brush, and accomplishes the same thing...
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
I really should have suggested getting the battery tested first. I just assume that a person would rule that out first, but I once changed a bunch of parts looking for an "electrical gremlin" myself.
Sometimes I forget to start with the easiest things.
68 F-100 Short Box 2wd
302/c4/3.50
81 F-100 Long Box 2wd
460/c6/3.00
92 F-150 Lariat 4wd
302/auto couldn't go wrong for $500
Keep in mind that if you just disconnect the horn wire at the horn, current is still passing thru the horn relay coil draining your battery 24hours a day.
1974 Ford F-100 4x4- 360 / manual.
1970 Ford F250 4x4 ~ Sold.
knightfire83 wrote:Keep in mind that if you just disconnect the horn wire at the horn, current is still passing thru the horn relay coil draining your battery 24hours a day.
Like I said earlier, disconnect the horn relay!!
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!