I need to ream the cylinders. Whats the best ridge reamer to buy/rent? If I buy one....under $120.
Also should I get a flex hone or a 3 stone one?
questions
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Tim
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re: questions
If you don't plan on doing engine work on a steady basis then I'd suggest you rent a ridge reamer. There isn't a big call for them these days as most shops use reman crate engines. As far as hones go the ball or flex style hones do a better job in less time than the 3 stone version. The down side to them is you're pretty limited in size range. Different bore sizes require different size hones. With the old 3 stone versions one hone will cover a pretty broad range of bore sizes.
Clay
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re: questions
If you can knock them down with a scuff pad you don't need a ridge reamer. The scuff pad will cut carbon buildup. A wear ridge in the bore metal would require countless hours and scuff pads to remove.
Clay
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
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re: questions
Another trick for the carbon build up is to use Lacquer Thinner or Carb cleaner on it with the scuff pad, it dissolves/loosens it up.
Shayne
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I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
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