Okay... got another quirky issue... I've noticed when I depress the brakes on my '67, the tail lights glow immediatly. They will stay lit until I have to apply some solid pressure and really depress the pedal, then they go out! HOWEVER, if I then put HARD pressure ("stand") on the brake, the lights come back on!
What gives? The brakes themselves feel fine... it appears to be just a "dead spot" affecting the lights.
Former owner of a '67 F100 Camper Special
Current owner of a 2022 Ford Bronco Wildtrak
on my 67 not a cs the switch is easily removed. I forgot how mine went back on, but getting bolt back thru while holding the switch is a bit of a pain in the knuckles. I think when i get motivated to try to re-attach mine i will drop the column a few inches, it is really tight to reach thru there.
if you don't mind, would you let me know how your switch is oriented?
I believe someone posted the wires are toward driver side, but i need to know if the plastic part is closer to firewall or dash.
If I decide to replace it, I'll take a picture first. For the most part, the lights stay on when I'm braking. There's just a very short little window where they go off before they come back on. And by then I'm already going slow. Probably not the safest, but they DO work. I just don't feel like paying shipping for something so dinky.
BTW, I found that what I thought was what I needed at Autozone is not what I thought it was. It's some other switch. The switch I DO need is sold by NPD, though.
If anyone else has had this problem and/or has pictures for a '67, though, I would appreciate them! THANKS!
Former owner of a '67 F100 Camper Special
Current owner of a 2022 Ford Bronco Wildtrak
I got a new switch for mine at napa, it changes out in about 5 mins, unplug the wires, then i think theres a jam nut. you do have to get it adjusted right so that the brake lights will go out when you let off the pedal.
1969 Ford F250 Custom Cab 360/C6 - currently under de-construction
supermike, your switch will be different than oldschool's... his is a plunger type and they are much easier. yours will (should) have a bolt that goes thru switch and pushrod-then thru pedal arm- cap nut.
still shouldn't be too hard considering you have the right pushrod on yours. only issue is like i mentioned, the tight fit getting hand up in there to pass bolt thru it all.
67 F100 240 I6 3spd now gone
1971 F250 LWB FE power by FORD