Oh, and check the connection at the starter solenoid, where all the power wires connect (main wire in from the battery).
A rare problem, but I have seen serious electrical shorts burn up the wire terminals on that post, frying the whole system (and making it next to impossible to track down shorts/bad grounds, because it doesn't really show).
And while you are at it, check the gum wrapper. They tend to cause lots of problems without looking like there is anything wrong.
i have absolutely NO CLUE what is going on here. the lights test fine from the places i tapped on minute, turn the truck off and back on.......NOTHING! AT ALL! test it from the battery, works. I have absolutely no clue why this would happen. I had it where the volt gauge was working fine, woohoo, yay hoora, whatever you wanna yell. Go to plug up the temp sensor and it shuts off the light for it when i connect it to the gauge, but if i just keep it grounded, with just a line running to the ground and a line for power, it works. So somewhere in the gauge cluster, its not right. Does the gauge panel only need one ground total? Still that makes no sense, because you have to ground the other bulbs.....of does the single ground run through the metal face and ground all three, where all you need is the ground wire for the gauge connected, but not running anywhere else....
there is no pink wire, only (what i call) light purple, and theres no blue wire. only like black with a blue strip or something. maybe it was red/blue. the wire i tapped into, i would call red....
perhaps your guages are setup up for 12 volts and the ipvr wich kicks it down to 5.5v is throing it all off. that is if your running them through the origial wiring.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
the only original wiring im using is coming off the ignition switch, nothing else. I may go to radio shack and pick up a switch, and distribution block and wire it directly to the battery. that would work for the gauges, but I still have no idea why nothing else works....
maybe the ignition switch burnt out on it or the wires going to it. is there someone around there who can look at whats going on here with this truck. i know i could fix it if i was there but im not. this is a simple fix for him im sure.
noone that I know of honestly....I don't know many people around here and those I do know are afraid of electrical stuff. If it is the ignition switch, that means none of the wires would get power, cutting off wipers/lights/ignition completely right? My brake lights don't work is why I am asking.
If it's the ignition switch, I wonder how much those cost...
if you don't mind, would you please read my new thread in this section...
New switch can be had for around $20.00 at the parts store.
As for wire colors, that's coming from the diagram. Without being there to see what's going on, I can't tell you anymore, but I WOULD start tracing wires, like I and others have suggested. You have a serious short somewhere, be it the ignition switch or in the harness, and until you find it, you're going nowhere (literally).
i wouldnt try that in the new post i would forget it. you will have a hugh mess before its over with if you try that.
if you have power at the battery. then see if you have power att he solinoid then see if you have power at the switch and then see with the key on if you have power to the coil or any other wires comiing off the switch. sometimes i have heard that behind the fuse box the wires can be corroded and not make correct contact. that is the basic path to following the circuts of power. it has to be between those things someplace. also is your negative battery cable hooked to the engine and is there a strap going from the engine to the firewall? those have to be there to work. have they become disconnected in any way.
okay, so battery is fine, check the side of the solenoid farthest from the battery, the side where the starter wire connects. then check power somewhere coming off the ignition switch?
fordman wrote:i wouldnt try that in the new post i would forget it. you will have a hugh mess before its over with if you try that.
Not likely, if the connections are good. I drove home 150 plus miles doing just that before, because my ignition switch was fried. It's not the best remedy, but it DOES work in a pinch.
okay, if i understood right, the starter connects to the relay on the side closest to the cab, if i ground ON the battery, and have my hot side of the DMM on that terminal, I have zero power, with the key off. on the side closest to the battery (essentially reading battery power) i have 11.92. with the key ON, i have all of... .52 on the starter side of the relay.
the cab side of the solinoid only gets hot when the key is truned to start. check the red wire under the dash that is hooked to the ignition switch maybe its yellow i dont remember check the largest wires for power.
